The marking on the lower crank sprocket is also obvious and should align when the two cams are
With it all aligned, refit the flywheel locking tool and do not touch until you've finished! It won't
stop the cams turning but will stop the crank from moving.
Now you can slacken the cambelt tensioner and remove the cambelt. Throw it to the back of the
garage to stop yourself from refitting it.
Now's the time to check all those bearings for wear and tear. Spin them and check to make sure
they're not gritty or seized. Apart from the balancer belt tensioner there should be no play side
to side either.
I had to change the front balance shaft pulley which is integrated with the cambelt idler bearing
- it had minimal side to side play but could wake the dead when spinning. I also replaced the
balancer shaft tensioner bearing as it had loads of play but the new one's have a bit of play too.
Now, follow the instructions for the cambelt fit on the Autodata sheet. Triple check all your
alignments marks and make sure that you turn the engine by hand at least twice as you apply
force to the tensioner. Then check the alignment marks again afterwards (
note you'll have to
remove the flywheel locking tool before trying to turn the engine by hand
) my exhaust cam had
moved one tooth on the belt so it's best to check and be sure with yourself now.
As in good old Haynes fashion, refitting is reversal of removal! The balancer belt aligns exactly
as shown on the Autodata sheet and it is very important to get this right - I got it a quarter turn
out on the front shaft and the engine tries to shake itself to bits above 3000rpm.
Also, take care to fit the left hand thread crank pulley bolt to the correct torque again using the
flywheel locking tool.
When tensioning both belts , I used the Fiat adapters to fit to the tensioners but didn't have the
tensioning tool so just set them to a bit tighter than they were when they came off. It's not very
scientific but you can't go far wrong.
Make sure you get the spark plug leads the right way round and securely fitted. I had a
loose one which caused a misfire - I thought I'd made an arse of the timing and took it all apart
again to find it wasn't - not funny....
Don't be afraid to be paranoid about the timing belt - check the alignment several times
during fitting and make sure you turn it by hand afterwards. If you have cocked it up you won't
cause any damage finding out this way......
That poxy metal cambelt cover - I'm sure it's very useful but it's also a swine to get back
on. I can guarantee it'll take you longer to do this than you can imagine beforehand. Swear at
it, kick the garage wall then try again - it does fit.
The water reservoir - the hose goes under the engine mount. Don't fit the mount and
then find the bottle won't fit back into place again. Very frustrating.
That engine mount, slip it loosely into place at the strut end but don't put the bolt in.
Bolt it to the engine first (3 19mm bolts with spacers and washers - don't loose em). Then I
used a bottle jack between the engine and strut brace to line up the hole at the strut. Brute
force works but it gets a bit tedious after 20 mins.
Finally, don't forget to refit the cambelt cover (plastic one) before you put this pulley